It worked great! So, test everything before gluing. I'll definitely share that here when I finish it. I attached Lazy Susan Hardware to this box and have been using it to organize my go to spice's for 3 or 4 years now. You might also like this easy tutorial to whiten your grout. Want a beautiful home decor idea? Let me know if you have questions. Thanks for the tutorial, Stephanie! I've been wanting to make a rectangular lazy susan for our dining table for ages and now I know how.
Using scrap wood, I walk through the exact steps I use for how to make a Lazy Susan Turntable in the video below. I made this little box out of scrap beadboard planks to organize my cabinets. It makes grabbing the right spice so much easier. With the Lazy Susan Turntable installed, I can just spin the box to grab the right spice. That's basically it for how to make a lazy susan turntable.
It's a super glue that works on wood, steel, and lots of other surfaces. Glue can't, at least not easily. Be sure that the box will spin in it's space on top of that hardware and the base piece of wood before gluing. If you want to make a basic Lazy Susan for your Kitchen Cupboards, the same steps apply minus the painted wording.
Old Stool If you do not have an old stool you can buy a wood round made from pine or other materials for this project. This project is a little photo heavy, but please do not let the quantity of photos scare you. I started off by taking the legs off the stool seat. It was quite simple. I used a screw driver to do this. I used a hand held sander with 80 grit sand paper to remove all of the paint. I had to do this for a long time and went through a few pieces of sand paper because the paint was some sort of industrial stuff!
Let me tell you, this stuff was tough to get off. But when I finally removed it all, it felt really good! I cleaned off the stool seat and I had my piece of round wood ready to convert into a Lazy Susan! I chose a dark walnut color which I absolutely love and use a lot on my projects. I stained the top and also around the rim of the base.
So I grabbed a hammer and started hammering all over the top to make indentations. Once I was done I then rubbed on a second coat of stain. I found this was enough, but if you want it really dark, you can do more coats until you get your desired look. I allowed the stain to dry for 24 hours before I continued with the project. While I waited for the stain to dry. I created a stencil using this method I could not find a pre-made stencil I liked and I wanted to use a very specific font.
I used the font Stencil STD. After I printed out the words, I used an X-Acto knife to cut out the outline of the letters. The great thing about rustic farmhouse is that the imperfections make it absolutely perfect!
Once the Lazy Susan round was dry and I had the words cut out, I placed them exactly where I wanted them. I used a flat stensil brush and black chalk paint and started gently sponging the paint on the letters. I made sure to wipe off excess paint before starting the sponging process so that no paint got under the stensil and mucked up the words. The beauty of Chalk style paint is that it dries very fast.
I let the paint dry for about 15 minutes before it was completely dry. I finish by rubbing on chalk paint sealing wax. This wax helps protect the paint from scratching off. We measured the Lazy Susan round and decided where we wanted to have the handles. Then marked the spots so we had them evenly opposite to each other. I drew circles around exactly where we had to drill. If you use a handle that you can drill down from the top like this one then you do not need to do this.
But to make sure we did it accurately we marked the exact spots where we would drill. We used a cordless electric drill to make the holes for the handles. We then slipped the Pan Head Screws in from the bottom side of the Lazy Susan and secured them on to the handles. We turned the lazy Susan around and screwed on the turnable hardware using the flat head countersunk screws.
To do this, it is very simple: Place the hardware exactly where you want it. Once the glue has cured, the blanks need to be flattened on one side with a belt sander. After the side is flat, use a straight edge to mark the diagonals with a pencil or marking knife to find the center of each blank. This is the reference point that will be used to mount the faceplate and subsequently the bearings. The reference point on the blank that will be the top is going to be on the bottom of the top when it's finished.
However, the reference point on the blank that will be the base is going to be on the top of the finished base. It is very important to make sure that this point is in the true center of the blank. If you're off, the Lazy Susan will wobble as it turns. Mount the top on a faceplate and put it on the lathe. Start the lathe at a low speed and true up the outer edge of the blank making it a circle, using either a gouge or scraper.
When the blank is round, the edge can be cut to whatever profile you prefer. I generally round the edge gently so it feels comfortable when someone grabs it to turn the Lazy Susan. At this point, the edge can be sanded while the blank is on the lathe. I generally sand to grit. The top of the blank can be turned to whatever thickness you prefer.
As you turn the top of the blank, you need to check the top frequently with a straight edge to find the high and low spots on the blank. I don't worry about getting the top absolutely flat at this point, as I'm mainly cutting the blank down to the thickness I want while trying to keep it as flat as possible. When the blank is at the thickness you want, take it off the lathe and use a belt sander to get the blank absolutely flat.
I start with an 80 grit belt and finish with a belt. The final sanding on the blank is done with an orbital sander, starting at either or grit and finishing with grit. The base is turned a little differently. The top of the base will be where the bearings are mounted and the bottom is where the base will sit on the table. The edge of the base is generally turned with a bullnose profile but it can be any profile you prefer.
The bottom of the base is turned flat and then recessed to provide a foot similar to the foot on a bowl. The base can be turned with either a gouge or scraper, whichever you prefer.
The base is sanded on the lathe, using a progression of grits, finishing with grit.
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